In Fossombrone a cellar with wines of pure elegance, near Bonci is a gourmet

What is striking about the wines of the “Collina delle Fate” cellar in Fossombrone is the cleanliness which, as in this case, is often synonymous with elegance. In oenological matters, cleanliness means neatness free from artifices. The cleanliness of a wine is synonymous with truth in it. It was a pleasant and great discovery to taste the wines of the “Collina delle Fate”, dedicated to five fairies (Ludovica, Martina, Benedetta and Giulia Berloni and Joelle Pieretti) by their father Massimo Berloni, an entrepreneur who was enlightened even when he making wine, who runs the company with his wife Manuela Mariotti. These wines have a distinctly French appeal. Two clear examples. The Chardonnay “Adagio” 2015 announces itself with aromas that oscillate between yellow and green inflorescences and a clear reference to the hedge of our fields that runs along the white roads: wild mustard. The olfactory path is high and leads us to blunders of yarrow and the vanilla pulp of asphodel, rare topics that you will not find in any wine dictionary except in the one signed by the writer and his master Otello Renzi. In this wine the almond blossoms feed on mineral salts and we stop here because a page would be needed to describe their complexity. The 2018 version of Chardonnay is of a lymphatic lunar yellow, has a crunchy soul full of saltiness, pungency of thyme and moves between limestone crevasses. It should be listened to at least an hour. You can do this by going to the cellar and having refreshments in the nearby “Le Bonci gourmet”, an equally surprising gastronomy in Fossombrone (photo Paolo and Barbara Bonci with Silvia Donnini), where they prepare simple delicacies: bread, spelled salad with vegetables, Prawns, cherry tomatoes and rocket, gourmet pizza and other freshly prepared dishes of good and fresh simplicity.

David Eusebi